How to Convert Image to Embroidery File? Step by Step

Learning of embroidery file format

It is also known as a pattern design file which serves as a reference guide for the machine. It contains all the information (e.g. stitch type, density, count, angle, etc) that affects the embroidery efficiency, speed, and performance, etc. Embroidery file formats are of two types:

1. Machine formats
2. Software formats

Software format: Also known as pattern design formats used when editing the patterns in software. Common examples are Emb or Rec etc. These files are in the special format of the graphic file which means it has all the details of the pattern as its color, size, sequence, and other digitizing details such as stitch selection or density, etc.

Machine file formats– Also known as stitch formats, used while importing files into machines or the one that a machine’s electronic system can recognize to stitch a design. The choice of this format entirely depends on your machine type.

Popular Embroidery file formats are:

DST (Data stitch Tajima)- Compatible with many machine types. Useful for storing pattern details. 

PES (Philips embroidery format)- Best to work with brother and baby lock embroidery machines.

PCS (Ptaff creative stitch)- This format works best with Ptaff machines and models.

JEF (Janome embroidery file)- Best for brother machine models.

EXP (Expanded file format)- Work with Melco machine models.

PEC and PCS- Both file formats are useful for brother and baby lock models.

HUS- This format works with Husqvarna Viking Embroidery Format.

Do you want to learn more about embroidery file format? I would recommend you to visit the embroidery file format

Why convert images to embroidery files?

The process of digitizing photos into embroidery brings a new way of custom embroidery to add a personalized touch to clothing and accessories. Both small and large-scale industries introduced custom embroidery services to increase their potential for creating differentiated products and accessories for their clients. So, the clients reach the high-grade digitizer to avail these clients but finding the right one is not an easy task. If you are looking for a professional digitizer, EMdigitizer provides you with the best custom embroidery digitizing services at an affordable rate. Go and visit their official website to check what type of embroidery digitizing services they offer.

How to convert an image to embroidery?

Before starting to process an image to embroidery design, being a digitizer or designer, you need to ask for these details to your clients.

• Image detail or what type of design they want
• What would be the size of design they want for their material
• In which format, the file format will be selected according to the embroidery machine?

Let’s start this conversion process. You can opt for any good digitizing program but here I select Studio Wilcom for my tutorial on converting images to embroidery files. They offer 30-day free trials. You can learn more about embroidery software by visiting our article on the topic: 8 best embroidery software.

Steps 01- Import the image

Let’s begin with importing your image into the digitizing software. From the file menu, click on “Open design”.

A new window will be open that shows the location of your design collection. Select the one you want to import.

Tip: If your picture has any background, remove it with any background removal tool and then save the image in a format of PNG or JPG.

Check the design size:

Now make sure to adjust the design size according to the client’s preference. Here, I will receive an image of a trident which I am going to digitize next.

Here my design size is 2.1 inches, and there is also a little gap which we will cover while digitizing that image.

Lock the design:

Move the image to make sure it is in the center and then press K to lock its position to prevent its movement when starting working on it.

Step 02. Split the image into objects

To work easily on each design element, it’s a great way to make small objects or shapes of the design.

Here, I am going to digitize a trident for a hat. Whatever image you choose, these steps remain the same

First, I will measure the length of the arrow from the top corner to the bottom and it is about 13 and a half millimeters, which is too long.

You can always have an option to adjust its size. I want it to be about 10 millimeters.

I will create a run stitch here to measure the exact distance.

Set a guide:

As I go down to check the measurement again, it’s about 9.3 but we want it to be 10 millimetres. Mark that area and set a guide where you want to check what is the maximum length.

As we want it to be 10 to prevent losing satin stitches, create a shape there. Now it measures 10 exactly, colored with blue.

Create sharp edges:

I want to make my edges look sharp, so I will press h and then pick up these 2 points as shown in the image and then lift them with an arrow to make them more curved.

From the right side, the “Maximum stitches” are 10.4 where .4 is added due to push and pull compensation.

Step 03. Start digitizing the left-side arrow

Here I will first digitize the left arrow then move to the right one and at last, I will work on the large part of the design which is the middle one. You can decide which part you want to digitize first keeping in mind the material on which you want it to stitch. As I am creating this image to stitch it on a hat, I will move ahead with the left arrow.

Create walking stitches:

As I am working on the left, I will start creating walking stitches from the right-hand side by keeping in mind the possibility of gaps occurring.

Now select column B and set your underlay setting for good tracing.

Add push-pull compensation:

For bold and sharp edges, do three clicks around the arrow pick three nodes, and pull them up.

That gives it a perfect shape where you can easily locate the start and stop ends of objects.

Adjust stitch angle:

Move back to digitize that L shape of stitches on the left side. Traditionally the stitch angel looks like this.

But I want to see all my stitches in a horizontal plane. Break up the L piece again and then drag them down to keep the angle right.

Now the stitches seams in the horizontal plane. If you see any gap, go back and separate the stitches to edit, and adjust the start and ending points to keep the stitches close.

Step 04. Digitize the right arrow

After completely digitizing the left arrow, switch to the next location.

Create run stitch:

At the last tip where you leave digitizing the left arrow, put the arrow and move along to create a run stitch.

Use Copy paste function:

When you create a base, you can simply take advantage of the copy-paste feature from your software for the same design.

Move your cursor to the left digitized logo, then click, duplicate, mirror, and paste on the right side arrow. If you cannot locate these features in your software, re-digitize the second part as we create the left one.

Step 5- Digitize the long middle part of the image

As we have done with two parts, find out the area that connects both left and right areas to start working on the middle part.

Create bridge:

Now you have found a connection spot, let’s create a bridge here, just like that.

Create a H bar of stitches just like we did with two parts.

Cover the gap between stitches:

As you can see, there is a gap between stitches and both are in different directions.

I will want to overlap that area to keep the sequence right. This is the other reason we create a bridge, you can also add more links with bridges to prevent any gaps or cover the design area.

Adjust angle:

Keep the line of angle in a way that prevents open-up stitches.

Now you can check the start and ending points of every design object to decide where you want to travel along stitches.

These anchoring points help to edit the object’s setting to avoid maximum cuts.

Apply lock and underlay stitches:

Create a lock stitch in slow motion to see how it works. As there is no underlay in our design, let’s work on it.

First I will use a standard edge run underlay and then apply a double zig-zag for better coverage. Make sure to check the no. of cuts which are 3 showing on the right side.

To minimize trim, go back to the objects and remove all the stitches. From the design boundaries, you can see and adjust the cuts.

Move back to the first object which was our left-side arrow. Create an edge run and then a double zig-zag as an underlay.

It is best practice to create stitches from the top, then take a pause and start at the bottom side.

Finish all the objects in the same way.

Do it slowly to check if there are any errors in the stitches and to make sure not to miss any stitches.

This is how your design looks clean and the edges are very sharp.

Step 06- Export or save it in embroidery file format

Once we have completed our design file, it’s time to export and save it in an embroidery file. Locate the export icon from the toolbar that is on the top of the left corner.

Click the Export icon or under the file menu, choose “Export machine files”.

In the dialogue box, from the drop-down list, select “Save as type” and choose any embroidery format (DST, TBF, PES, HUS, PCS, JEF, etc) explained above according to the client demand and then select “Save ”.

 Now your design has been imported to the stitch file format.

Then send this file to your client which he loads into the machine. The machine follows the stitches we assigned to that design in sequence and creates it on their desired polo shirt or hat. If you want to learn how to convert images to DST, this blog is for you.

Conclusion

This is all you need to know about the process of converting an image to an embroidery file for personalization purposes. Follow and inspect each step carefully because a good digitizer knows how to keep moving with design in a sequence. Take care of stitches, angles, or trim and play with underlay to maintain the design look. Select the embroidery file format so your machine can easily digest your stitch setting to create magic on your final stuff.